The Five Chapters are Our Journey
This is how we started probably the most ambitious project to document and archive our remaining heritage street food vendors in all 110 food centres in Singapore. We open Chapter One with a somewhat dark tone, looking at the hawkers who would be retiring without an heir apparent and those whose craft faces the real threats of extinction. In the midst of changing times and dire challenges, we also found reasons for hope in the guardian angels (Chapter 4) who willingly chose to watch over and continue their family trade and craft.
The pictorial documentation of black and white photos closes with the most inspiring ending by unveiling the unsung superheroes of the trade; those among the most elderly yet still actively involved in their craft (a handful has unfortunately retired from the trade by the time we went into print). Most have faced war and lack, often in hunger but with a heart full of love, when surrounded by hopelessness they found a reason to give hope to others and in the face of fear how they stood fearless to life's challenges.
This book, taken 900 days to complete is a tribute to all our dear uncles and aunties who have tirelessly served multiple generations of food-loving Singaporeans. We are forever grateful for all the wonderful memories we now hold dear to our hearts. May this book be a platform for new generations of food-lovers and vendors to continue our shared narrative.
This is a book for personal keeping and collection, its value will only increase with time and this is a reminder to my own children - our street food culture, just like our childhood memories is not for sale.
Our subjects told us they have no regrets doing what they have done for most of their lives. These are the dedicated folks who gave a lifetime to their craft to serve generations of food-loving Singaporeans. A handful has retired from the trade since we started our documentation work in 2010 and most stalls are almost certain of vanishing altogether with their owner’s age.
The street food was their currency and also their playground - it was a different time, and they had a different upbringing in a growing nation still finding its roots among immigrants. We heard fascinating life stories - some were so private, we couldn’t repeat it to strangers. These are the hawkers who have “seen it all” and even though a perfect environment to grow and nurture in was a luxury they never had, everyone came to us with a colourful tale of their own.
There were just as many love stories within the food tales we heard. The stalls where they worked also became cubicles for a love story to unfold. We heard from hawker couples who met, dated and started their family - the hawker centre the backdrop for most of their lives. These are the hawkers who touched us with their unyielding dedication as a couple to their craft and their often unspoken gratitude for their life partner’s sacrifices and support.
Guardian Angels - the name we gave the special heirs who remained at their family stalls to safeguard and continue the family trade. And being the eldest child of a hawker often came with extra responsibilities - taking care of siblings, helping with chores and an expectation to take over their family trade and most were never given a choice. Thank you Guardian Angels for watching over your craft.
Add up the age of those in this chapter, it will total over a millennium and a half. They are among the most elderly of hawkers, still very much active in their trade. Most should really be enjoying their sunset years and yet, they work for no reason other than an uncommon love and attachment they have for their craft. Many were still adamant of making their food entirely by hand — the laborious old-fashioned way.